Korean Ramen: A Soul Food Born from Hardship and Love

When I think of Ramen, it’s not just a dish; it’s a memory—a warm embrace from my mother during a time when life was anything but easy. My first memory of Ramen is tied to one of the happiest moments of my childhood. I had just returned from a daycare center where kids like me, whose parents were out working tirelessly, spent their days. My parents were traveling, selling clothes and blankets, often gone for weeks at a time. But when my mother returned, it was a celebration.

She would cook Ramen on a charcoal coil stove (彭蛋火), asking if I wanted an egg added to it. Of course, I always said yes. When the Ramen was ready, I remember gulping it down as she watched, her face glowing with happiness. For me, it wasn’t just about the Ramen—it was about being with her. In those moments, nothing else mattered. This memory is not unique to me. Many Korean kids from that era share similar stories, where simple meals like Ramen symbolized comfort, family, and love.

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The Birth of Korean Ramen

The Cultural Importance of Soup in Korea
Ramen’s deep connection to Korean culture is rooted in the importance of soup. In Korean cuisine, soup isn’t just a side—it’s essential. With rice being sticky and sometimes heavy, hot soup helps with digestion and rounds out meals. Koreans use a stainless steel spoon to scoop soup and chopsticks for side dishes, a dining custom unique compared to Japan and China.
Beyond its practicality, soup symbolizes sincerity. Offering a warm, hearty soup shows care and effort, a sentiment that aligns perfectly with the role ramen has played in Korean households.

American Contribution
Post-Korean War, poverty was widespread. People survived by eating scraps like “꿀꿀이 죽” (“pig-feed porridge”) and even tree bark and roots, which caused physical harm due to their indigestibility. In the 1950s, South Korea relied heavily on food aid from the United States, including wheat flour supplied under the Public Law 480 program (“Food for Peace”). Between 1955 and 1970, the U.S. sent millions of tons of surplus wheat, providing a cheap and versatile ingredient that became the foundation for instant ramen production. The aid not only alleviated immediate food insecurity but also introduced Koreans to flour-based products, which were novel at the time. Without this support, the rise of Ramen as a staple food might not have been possible.

The Birth Story of Soul Food
Jeon Joong-yoon, a wealthy businessman and president of Jeil Life Insurance, was deeply moved by the sight of people in Dongdaemun Market waiting in long lines for meager bowls of porridge. Witnessing the desperation and hunger in post-war Korea, he decided to dedicate himself to finding a solution. Remembering the instant ramen he had tasted during a business trip to Japan, Jeon envisioned creating an affordable, accessible food that could help feed millions struggling with poverty.

Determined to make this vision a reality, Jeon founded Samyang Foods and began his quest to produce Korea’s first instant ramen. However, the challenges were immense—he lacked the funds, faced resistance from Japanese companies unwilling to sell manufacturing machines, and encountered skepticism from others who doubted ramen could replace rice. Despite these obstacles, Jeon secured government support and $50,000 in funding, but even then, manufacturers demanded exorbitant prices for the equipment.

After relentless efforts, Jeon met Okui, the president of Myojo Foods in Japan, and shared his dream of making ramen affordable for Korea’s poorest families. Touched by Jeon’s determination, Okui agreed to sell the equipment at a fair price and teach him the technology needed. On September 15, 1963, Jeon’s perseverance paid off, and Samyang Foods launched Korea’s first instant ramen.

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Ramen’s Role in Korea’s Industrialization

During the 1960s and 1970s, Korea underwent rapid industrialization. Factories and construction sites became hubs of activity as rural workers flocked to urban areas. Ramen became indispensable:

1. Fuel for Workers: Its affordability and quick preparation made it the go-to meal for laborers working long hours.
2. Symbol of Modernization: Ramen represented Korea’s ability to adapt foreign influences and make them uniquely Korean.
3. Household Essential: As its popularity grew, ramen became a staple in Korean households, loved for its versatility and comforting flavors.

It’s hard to imagine how Korea could have sustained its labor force during this era without ramen.

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Ramen Today: A Shared Legacy

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Finding Your Own Soul Food

When I lived in the United States, I discovered my American soul food at J. Christopher’s with their hearty Route 66 meal. Pairing it with a cup of coffee and the company of friends, it wasn’t just about the food—it was about the comfort, connection, and warmth that made those moments unforgettable. It reminded me that food isn’t just about taste—it’s about connection, culture, and belonging.
For expats navigating life in a new country, Korean soul foods like ramen, kimchi jjigae, or soondubu can provide a sense of comfort and grounding. These dishes, steeped in history and culture, offer more than sustenance—they offer connection.

What’s your soul food in Korea? Whether it’s ramen, street food, or a bowl of comforting soup, I encourage you to discover your own Korean soul food. Share it in the comments below, and let’s celebrate the foods that nourish not just our bodies, but also our hearts and souls.

References:
Naver Blog Article on the History of Korean Ramen. – Korean